The food in Kerala is as big a highlight as its green hills, coast and wonderful wildlife. Its mellow flavours and nutritious ingredients have seduced many a hungry traveller, and everywhere you travel you'll see the fresh produce that will end up on your plate that evening, from coconuts and mangos, to fresh fish and exotic spices.
" Coast, Backwaters And cool hill country – KERALA’S Geography explains its diverse and delicious cuisine, characterised by SEAFOOD AND SPICES, RICE, COCONUT AND SIMPLE VEGGIES. "
Though small, Kerala is a perfectly formed package of beautiful landscapes, big beaches, exotic wildlife and colonial history, but read any reviews of holidays here and another highlight gets raved about again and again – THE FOOD!
Travellers wax lyrical about the crisp dosas loaded with potato curry served up for breakfast, the fresh seafood simmered in coconut milk, and the epic celebration sadhya meals of rice and numerous tiny, tempting portions of curry, dhal, pickles and pappadams.
Fish is served everywhere around the coast and backwaters of Kerala, with both freshwater and sea varieties on the menu. Often it’s served in a spicy pollichathu style, flavoured with curry leaves, lime juice, onions, garlic, ginger and spices, and then fried. Or you might find it simmering in a bath of coconut milk and mango curry sauce. Kerala’s seafood is superb, too. Jhinga kachcia aam kari is a speciality made with green mango and prawns cooked in coconut milk and spices. There are also Goan-Portuguese seafood classics like peixe recheado which is grilled, spice-stuffed fish, a legacy of Portugal’s colonisation of India’s west coast.
In Kochi, you can see the unusual Chinese nets that local fishermen use, operated from the shore. The nets are strung across bamboo and teak poles which are lowered into the sea, counter-weighted by large stones tied to ropes. On the footpath behind the Chinese nets are several fishmongers, where you can buy the just-caught fish, prawns and lobster, then take it to one of the nearby outdoor restaurants to have it cooked and served for a small extra fee.
While bland, Western-style hotels in Kerala will offer up the predictable trio of toast-butter-jam, an authentic Keralan breakfast is way more exciting, nutritious and savoury. Here are some of its classic dishes, fantastic for breakfast but delicious any time of the day.
These dishes are traditional to the community of Syrian or Saint Thomas Christians living in Kerala since the first century AD. Many have now found their way into mainstream Keralan cooking, including karimeen, or pearl spot fish. This speckled freshwater fish, which lives in the Keralan backwaters, is traditionally a Syrian Christian delicacy and it’s typically marinated in a mixture of lemon juice, red chillies and spices before being wrapped in plantain leaves and baked.
Fish molee is another Syrian Christian speciality, made in a traditional manchatti (earthenware pot). Fish such as kingfish or seer fish is first marinated in lemon juice, salt and chilli, then lightly fried and stewed in coconut milk and spices including turmeric, pepper, cinnamon and cloves. Green chillies are added to produce a flavour that is both tangy and hot.
The Malabar region lies in the northern part of Kerala, above the River Bharathapuzha, and it’s contributed some tasty dishes to Keralan cuisine. One simple example is the parotta/paratta, a classic street food flatbread. Balls of flour dough are rolled thin, pulled into strips and then curled up. The curled rolls are then rolled out again and cooked on a hot plate, with a splash – literally – of oil, producing a layered flatbread with a flaky, crispy texture. Chicken cooked in coconut milk is another Malabar classic, as is chatti pathiri, a layered pastry dish that can be sweet or savour.
This celebration meal is served on a banana leaf, and is traditionally eaten by every Keralan during the spring harvest festival of Onam, as well as on other special occasions during the year. A portion of rice is accompanied by at least 10 mini dishes and dollops of deliciousness, all vegetarian, providing an extraordinary array of tastes. You’ll find curries, sambals, pickles and chutneys, as well as small portions of crisp pappadam and servings of sweet kheer and spiced buttermilk. Each taste is balanced following the principles of Ayurveda, promoting equilibrium and a sense of well-being in mind and body.